Graz, Austria: A Delightful Surprise You Didn’t Know You Needed

Discover the Charm of Austria's Number Two City

Nestled in the picturesque province of Styria, Graz, Austria’s second-largest city, is a gem waiting to be explored. Arnold Schwarzenegger may call this province home, but Graz offers so much more than a celebrity connection. Whether it’s the city's unique culinary charm, historic landmarks, or vibrant local culture, Graz promises to steal your heart.

The charm of Graz lies in its ability to captivate history lovers and curious travelers alike. During my visit, I stayed in the old castle stables, converted into apartments, in the serene suburb of Eggenberg, just a short tram ride from the city center. Right across from my accommodation stood the magnificent Schloss Eggenberg, a grand Baroque palace rich with history. As I wandered through the cobblestone streets, I discovered a cozy local pub and an enchanting corner church, both radiating the quaint, timeless allure that makes Graz so unforgettable.

A Feast for the Senses

Culinary Delights

Did you know Graz is Austria’s Culinary Capital? With 17 farmer’s markets scattered across the city, it’s a foodie’s paradise. One look at the vibrant produce, freshly baked breads, and locally-sourced pumpkin seed oil, and you’ll find yourself hooked.

Here’s a peek at some of the dishes I devoured during my time in Graz:

• A toasted sandwich with brie, cranberry jam, sprouts, and walnut bread from a cozy bakery.
• Polenta topped with creamy sheep’s cheese and fresh tomato salad.
• A delightfully crisp pretzel with uniquely fine salt flakes (though I’ll admit the first one wasn’t as fresh as I’d hoped!).
• Styria-style fried chicken, coated in flavorful breadcrumbs and served perfectly crisp.
• Mixed greens drizzled generously with Styrian pumpkin seed oil, their nutty, rich flavor elevating even the simplest salad.
• A hearty pumpkin soup finished with a swirl of the same vibrant oil.

I quickly fell in love with the deep, roasted taste of pumpkin seed oil—it seemed to make everything better. However, my enthusiasm for it got the better of me. After indulging far too often, I had to scale back to protect my digestive system. So, if you love it like I do, go slow!

On top of this, the city’s wine scene is not to be missed. Graz offers plenty of opportunities to sip on a glass of Grüner Veltliner or a Hugo Spritz while soaking in the city’s charm.

One standout experience was discovering a deli filled with cheeses from Italy, France, and Spain. The owner prepared a fantastic sandwich of cheese and prosciutto on a crusty baguette to pair with a glass of Italian wine. Graz certainly has a way of celebrating both its local flavors and international inspirations. 

Exploring Graz

Old Town and Schlossberg

The Old Town of Graz is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a must-see for architecture and history lovers. Don’t miss the Schlossberg, a hilltop fortress offering panoramic views of the city. When I arrived, a cheerful youth group was playing music and dancing at the top, adding lively energy to this historic spot.

Graz’s Unique Spots

One of Graz’s quirkiest attractions is Mur Island, a man-made steel island in the river Mur. Crossing this architectural marvel was interestingly odd, and it’s just a short tram ride from most parts of the city.

Another bit of whimsy I stumbled upon? A pop-up relaxation area complete with beanbags, hammocks, and shelves of books. Graz has a way of combining the playful and the practical in ways that other cities just can’t. It was gone a week later. 

Must-See Museums

One ticket opened the doors to several of Graz’s top museums. My favorites included:

• Kunsthaus Graz (The Friendly Alien): This modern art museum features eye-catching exhibits, including a life-like AI sculpture that left me awestruck.
• Schloss Eggenberg: Touring this Baroque palace was a highlight of my trip. Its staterooms are impeccably preserved, showcasing 17th- and 18th-century splendor.
• Folk Life Museum: From historical clothing to everyday artifacts, this museum offers a fascinating glimpse into Austria’s cultural heritage.

Pro tip: Start your museum day with an affogato near the river, just like I did. It’s the perfect pick-me-up before a day filled with discovery.

Graz Keeps Giving

Even as my time in Graz was winding down, it kept surprising me. A stroll through one of the parks along the Mur river revealed scenic beauty at every corner. Local recommendations led me to dinner at Graz’s “Little Italy,” where cozy eateries served up delicious bowls of pasta.

And the vibe? Simply unbeatable. After walking the main square and exploring the Grazer Landhaus (free to enter anytime!), I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the warm, relaxed atmosphere Graz exudes.

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Why Graz Should Be Your Next Destination

Graz is more than just a hidden gem; it’s a city that effortlessly marries history, modern charm, and culinary excellence. Whether you’re wandering through its Old Town, indulging in a deliciously fresh meal, or exploring its unique museums, Graz promises an unforgettable experience.

Planning your own trip to Graz? Pack a camera, an appetite, and a sense of curiosity. Start your days with coffee and end them with a Hugo Spritz in hand, letting Graz captivate you every step of the way.

 

I bookended my Graz stay with a night in Vienna on each end. Read about it here!